A Gap-Year of Adventures: The North Shore

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Full Album, and well worth a look I think!

http://dur.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2180053&l=ef8c9&id=61205739

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I'm writing this back in Waikiki, with sand embedded in my skull, skin that has turned chocolate colour and a boat load of memories from what is surely one of the most desolate sports in the northern Pacific Ocean.

Arrived Friday into "Backpackers Plantation Village", a set of 10 cabins or so 30 feet from the ocean and set among lush greenery. I was in cabin 6 with a bunch of super chilaxed surfers. Matt, from Cornwall, Brett from Melbourne, and a permanently stoned queenslander.

Plantation Village. A set of 6 cabins nestled together. Fairly crowded, and a bit grimey, but all of that was super outweighed by the location. More relaxed than Waikiki, stars galore by night, and no one other than surfers ambling along the coastal road carrying their boards and looking for the best surf. Can't say I exactly felt at home among so many people who only seemed to talk "surf" but it was still good to escape crowded Waikiki and see the real Hawaii.

The uncrowded beach late in the day, down from Plantation Village

I couldn't quite get my head around the waves that were pounding in to such an extent that the beach has a permanent shelf incline, and a steep one at that. Wasn't too sure how strong the currents really were, so sat and watched a few locals messing around in the waves, getting absolutely hammered, pushed up the beach probably 30m, then dragged back down off their feet as they tried to stand up. As they seemed to be hanging around for quite a bit, and it could be a long time til I get to Hawaii again thought I had to give it a go!! Threw myself into the base of what was probably a good 4 or 5 footers, tossed around, nearly lost my trunks! Thrown up the beach and dragged back down. FUN!!!

And here's one of the beasts

Watched the sun go down, went back, went out for 6 miles or so along the beach front path, then got chatting to some of the surfers once I got back. Some of them there to make a name for themselves, or "get photographed" as they would mention. Rustled up a real steak sandwich, fresh bread from the local shop, and a meaty sirloin rare, sat on the balcony under the stars and fended off the local wildlife, especially the stray cats which seemed to take a particular interest in the sirloin!

Friday was an early start, got an absolute banger of a mountain bike (I hesitate in saying mountain) from reception. Suppose you can't complain for $5 (for 24 hrs!). The rear gears were screwed, which meant it had 8, 16 or 24, and nothing in between! Cycled west along towards Hal'eiwa, then just followed the coastal road to Mokule'ia and Mokule'ia Army Beach, right to the end of the road. Probably about 20 miles, from where the Lonely Planet says the Ka'ena Point trail starts. Another 5 miles or so to the westerly most point of O'ahu. Filled up a few liters worth of water at the last set of beach rest rooms then hit the mountain bike trail hard.

The Lonely Planet describes the area as "not only desolate" but ... "wild and windswept" which it certainly was. Didn't see anyone for 2 hours getting there, just the odd monk seal on the shoreline. Dusty, and brutally hot, this part of the island seems to bask in eternal sunlight when the rest of the island sits under cloud rising high above the Wai'anae & Ko'Olau Ranges. Eventually reached the end of the trail to be greeted by nothing but a US Coastguard beacon, a monk seal and waves pounding a rocky outcrop

From here West, just ocean. Couldn't have felt further from crowded Waikiki.

Took a walk out as far as the rocks would take me safely, and got some shots of the waves crashing in

Decided to check a few miles of the wai'anea (leeward) coast sorta to the right of ka'ena point (below):

Meant cycling along some pretty hairy paths that just seemed to disappear from beneath my wheels, like this:

Not quite sure what happened here - but if Mark Smith's reading this, you might wanna explain it mate? On I cycled, probably only 300m or so, then kinda realised the wheel wasn't actually turning. Nevermind, just the chain off, so put it back on. Then it came off again..put it back on...went through this process about 4 times before I realised it was obviously something slightly more problematic. Concenered at being probably 22 or 23 miles from the hostel, and at least 10 miles of that being across desolate shoreline, and the time being about 3ish I didn't fancy making it back before dark walking. Turned the bike on it's top and fiddled about a bit, did this for about 10 minutes to no avail. The chain just wouldn't sit on the rear gears, which were broken anyway, but just slipping right off the last gear. Decided to walk back down the path with the bike (back over that gorge!) and to a rock that gave at least some shade, as stopping meant no breeze, so I was loosing a lot of fluids, and only had a litre or so left.

Eventually worked out that the gear cable had snapped, and was so loose it had no tension, so when I gripped that hard and moved the pedals the chain stayed on the rear gears. Good I thought, but didn't fancy having to hold taught a metal cable for 22 miles to get home. Thankfully though, the trusted Buff, a present from Carly, came in perfectly well. Now they say these things can be used for anything. And it's true - it really can, maybe they should use this as an example on their website: http://www.buffwear.com/

Used that to tie the cable tight to the bike, could even adjust it as I went! Decided just to cycle straight back just in case it gave up the ghost once and for all.....did that, but just couldn't resist stopping off at a YMCA once I was on the road back. Bought two ice cold Cokes, the best Coke I've ever tasted, lay on the beach til an hour before sunset. Took a little while to dawn on me, but think I was the only one on that beach:

Probably found my own little paradise that day

Watched the sun set over the mountains as I cycled back, wearing nothing but shorts and flip flops. Cooling breeze making me, I think, the cyclist having the world's best cycle ride, right at that moment.

Had a spectacular final sunset when I neared the hostel, deep orangy glow over the ocean, looking back at where I'd been - right to the tip of that land mass right there: