A Gap-Year of Adventures: November 2007

Saturday, November 10, 2007

Hawaii - The Big Island

Two photo albums

Here from the first few days

http://dur.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2182062&l=f50b7&id=61205739

and here from a two night hike up Mauna Loa, the worlds "most massive" volcano, as measured from the ocean floor.

http://dur.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2182077&l=c47ce&id=61205739

Some pictures from the flight to The Big Island:

The island of Mol'okai - a perfect blue sky

Maui and Kahoolawe

So, having had a week on O'ahu I caught this flight out with Aloha Airlines to Kona where I was to pick up what I'd wanted for weeks - my own transport! A very American "compact" that took corners like a tank. Not at all bad for $141.

The good old Dodge that took me around 506 miles of the island in a week.

Drove straight down highway 11 and towards Hawaii Volcanoes National Park............

............taking a slight detour to check out South Point - the southern most point of the USA. The real one! Not Florida Keys!

Along with some extremely huge waves!

An Hawaiian shrine right at the tip. Those waves really did pound that shoreline though. They really did.

As one of the main reasons I wanted to get to the Big Island was to have to chance to climb Mauna Loa - the world's biggest volcano as measured from the ocean floor - I wanted to stay close to the trail head which began from the Volcanoes National Park. Right next door was the FREE (!) Namakani Paio campground. Decided to invest $50 in a tent, stove, sleeping bag and mat etc rather than pay $25 a night for a hostel. Afterall it was warm enough and I even met a Brit! Very rare for that corner of the world...I was beginning to learn!

After a day or so looking around the national park it was possible to see pretty much everything, some the highlights being the road that has been blocked by lava flow!! Fantastic:

But also being there early on a misty morning and seeing some locals perform some really strange ritual at Kilauea Iki Crater in the park. All for a purpose I am sure:

This lady with the long hair would kiss whoever was beside her right up on the forehead then squeeze their head between her hands while whispering something in what I can only imagine was Hawaiian. Certainly interesting, when I went back later in the day (once the mist had lifted), it was tour bus upon tour bus! Far more peaceful in the morning.

Also took a drive down to the base of the volcano, right where any flowing lava meets the ocean. Again, huge, huge waves!

But, as I said, the main point of getting out there was to tackle Mauna Loa, a two night hike up to a first cabin at 10,025 ft (7.5 miles), and then an 11.8 miles hike up to the summit cabin at 11,250 feet. Not strictly at the summit I eventually found out. Setting out through 6000, 7000, 8000 and 9000 feet wasn't too bad, but a volcano being a volcano it wasn't necesserily all that steep - just a long slog. I'd definitely prefer steep and short considering what must have been 15 kilos in my pack. Shelter, stove, sleeping bag, all food for two days, a gallon of water...water sterilsation tablets to treat the water that is collected from the roof of the shelter! Never even been on an overnight hike before, so I guess I didn't really know what to expect in terms of shoulder pain! Not too much problem reaching the first night's stop though - was quite excited about the stargazing potential - certainly being so high up.

Cabin number 1.

And sunrise the next morning from the top of Red Hill, the hill behind the cabin which gives "Red Hill Cabin" its name.

Fairly nippy too! Meant there wasn't really all that much opportunity for star gazing. Had the kit to keep warm for a little bit, but it still got to you!

Mauna Kea at sunrise, way up above the clouds...

Day 2. 11.8 miles up to the summite. That being a 4 mile round trip from what was the junction to the cabin - which was 2 miles away. To cut a long story short. That meant an elevation change of 3000ft, and a total of 17 or so for the day.

Wouldn't really have been too much of an issue if the trails hadn't looked like this!

And yes - this was a trail! Painstakingly slow progress. I can say that I have never felt what I felt that day in a race, or even a hard training session back home! Absolute agony by the end of the day. Clearly, the altitude, up over 13,000 feet played a part. Bar perhaps... RS GCSE, it is surely the hardest thing I've ever done...

Traversing snow up over 13,000 feet I summited just after 1pm, way, way, way above the clouds

The summit cairn

And the crater, way up there - Fantastic.

2 miles down from the top to the junction, then another 2 miles (picking my pack back up after stashing it in a wind break at the junction for the 2 miles to summit) along to the summit cabin at 13,250 ft. Both cabins had log books in, with people's stories of the challenge of getting there, the gruelling last 2 miles over the hardened lava rock to the cabin etc etc...but seeing that sun go down, and breathing in just fresh, but thin air, and being out in the middle of nowhere was quite an experience

Unfortunately, such was the altitude, my camera batteries decided not to work from that point onwards. In fact, the last pictures I could take (til I got down below 9000 feet the next day, and they started to work again) was the view from the compost toilet - check this out!

And the view from that seat - at sunset!! The temp dipping sharply!

The next day, was 21 miles straight down. Wish the camera had been working, as I set off at 4.30 am with just the head torch. Managed to cover 2 miles by the time the sun began to poke out above the clouds. The trail cairns looked like Hawaiian Gods amid the more awesome sunrise I'll ever see. Got down just after noon - after 7000feet of descent and having seen just one other person - a German women in her 40s off doing exactly the same route I had done. Feet aching more than ever, and never wanting to ever see rock like that again - seeing the car was just perfect. Though not the gas gauge. It meant a fairly rapid trip back down to Volcano Village and a sharpish fill up - at about 50p a litre by British prices!! Can't be that bad!

Oh by the way, loved this sign that I saw in Hilo, an hours drive or so down to sea level from the park!

Sunday, November 4, 2007

Val Nolasco Half Marathon - Waikiki

Up at 4am. Race start 5.30am.

After this sunset last night ->

I never dreamt that it would actually rain.

And rain it never stopped! Rain Rain Rain and then more of it! A torrential thunderstorm sat over O'ahu over night, meaning the last thing I needed was an alarm to wake me! Looks to be stuck here for a couple of days too (apparently!). It dropped everything it had on a 1000 of us for the whole race. My trainers were like sponges, got some major chaffage and blisters in all sorts of places.

Before (dark):

After (still dark, and extremely wet!)

Medal presentation:

-- met a couple of Hawaiian runners at the end, Scott and Jay, both who of whom had also won medals in their respective age groups. Good to meet and talk to some locals, shows again what a friendly sport athletics is all across the globe. Also good to be reminded, as they sure did, of how lucky I am to be able to visit all the places I have been, and am going to be visiting. Travelling the world, as Scott told me, is very rare for Hawaiian teens, and independent travel virtually unheard of.

Had an OK run. Never ran that early in the morning, race wise anyway. Sat in 2nd and 3rd for the first mile or so, then pushed it to the front opening a bit of a gap for 5 miles or so before the turn around. Strange to be running in total darkness, being totally drenched, and also being right out front with a pair of police motorbike outriders. Their blue strobes acting as something to follow at least. Slightly concerned I was always going to take a wrong turning at some point!

In fact, it was the police that pretty much did that for us, ending up turning us(the top 4, we'd opened up a good 2 minute lead) around a good half mile too far down the road meaning that by the end we'd ran over 14 miles. Not sure if that had a part to play in the wall I seemed to hit around the 10 mile point. Classic case empty engine cost me the top 3. Coming in 4th though, out of a 1000, was still worth while though, took my age category by half an hour though which was good to know. Never before have I ever ran a race though where my trainers have weighed so much! Of water!!

Saturday, November 3, 2007

The North Shore - O'ahu, Hawaii

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Full Album, and well worth a look I think!

http://dur.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2180053&l=ef8c9&id=61205739

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I'm writing this back in Waikiki, with sand embedded in my skull, skin that has turned chocolate colour and a boat load of memories from what is surely one of the most desolate sports in the northern Pacific Ocean.

Arrived Friday into "Backpackers Plantation Village", a set of 10 cabins or so 30 feet from the ocean and set among lush greenery. I was in cabin 6 with a bunch of super chilaxed surfers. Matt, from Cornwall, Brett from Melbourne, and a permanently stoned queenslander.

Plantation Village. A set of 6 cabins nestled together. Fairly crowded, and a bit grimey, but all of that was super outweighed by the location. More relaxed than Waikiki, stars galore by night, and no one other than surfers ambling along the coastal road carrying their boards and looking for the best surf. Can't say I exactly felt at home among so many people who only seemed to talk "surf" but it was still good to escape crowded Waikiki and see the real Hawaii.

The uncrowded beach late in the day, down from Plantation Village

I couldn't quite get my head around the waves that were pounding in to such an extent that the beach has a permanent shelf incline, and a steep one at that. Wasn't too sure how strong the currents really were, so sat and watched a few locals messing around in the waves, getting absolutely hammered, pushed up the beach probably 30m, then dragged back down off their feet as they tried to stand up. As they seemed to be hanging around for quite a bit, and it could be a long time til I get to Hawaii again thought I had to give it a go!! Threw myself into the base of what was probably a good 4 or 5 footers, tossed around, nearly lost my trunks! Thrown up the beach and dragged back down. FUN!!!

And here's one of the beasts

Watched the sun go down, went back, went out for 6 miles or so along the beach front path, then got chatting to some of the surfers once I got back. Some of them there to make a name for themselves, or "get photographed" as they would mention. Rustled up a real steak sandwich, fresh bread from the local shop, and a meaty sirloin rare, sat on the balcony under the stars and fended off the local wildlife, especially the stray cats which seemed to take a particular interest in the sirloin!

Friday was an early start, got an absolute banger of a mountain bike (I hesitate in saying mountain) from reception. Suppose you can't complain for $5 (for 24 hrs!). The rear gears were screwed, which meant it had 8, 16 or 24, and nothing in between! Cycled west along towards Hal'eiwa, then just followed the coastal road to Mokule'ia and Mokule'ia Army Beach, right to the end of the road. Probably about 20 miles, from where the Lonely Planet says the Ka'ena Point trail starts. Another 5 miles or so to the westerly most point of O'ahu. Filled up a few liters worth of water at the last set of beach rest rooms then hit the mountain bike trail hard.

The Lonely Planet describes the area as "not only desolate" but ... "wild and windswept" which it certainly was. Didn't see anyone for 2 hours getting there, just the odd monk seal on the shoreline. Dusty, and brutally hot, this part of the island seems to bask in eternal sunlight when the rest of the island sits under cloud rising high above the Wai'anae & Ko'Olau Ranges. Eventually reached the end of the trail to be greeted by nothing but a US Coastguard beacon, a monk seal and waves pounding a rocky outcrop

From here West, just ocean. Couldn't have felt further from crowded Waikiki.

Took a walk out as far as the rocks would take me safely, and got some shots of the waves crashing in

Decided to check a few miles of the wai'anea (leeward) coast sorta to the right of ka'ena point (below):

Meant cycling along some pretty hairy paths that just seemed to disappear from beneath my wheels, like this:

Not quite sure what happened here - but if Mark Smith's reading this, you might wanna explain it mate? On I cycled, probably only 300m or so, then kinda realised the wheel wasn't actually turning. Nevermind, just the chain off, so put it back on. Then it came off again..put it back on...went through this process about 4 times before I realised it was obviously something slightly more problematic. Concenered at being probably 22 or 23 miles from the hostel, and at least 10 miles of that being across desolate shoreline, and the time being about 3ish I didn't fancy making it back before dark walking. Turned the bike on it's top and fiddled about a bit, did this for about 10 minutes to no avail. The chain just wouldn't sit on the rear gears, which were broken anyway, but just slipping right off the last gear. Decided to walk back down the path with the bike (back over that gorge!) and to a rock that gave at least some shade, as stopping meant no breeze, so I was loosing a lot of fluids, and only had a litre or so left.

Eventually worked out that the gear cable had snapped, and was so loose it had no tension, so when I gripped that hard and moved the pedals the chain stayed on the rear gears. Good I thought, but didn't fancy having to hold taught a metal cable for 22 miles to get home. Thankfully though, the trusted Buff, a present from Carly, came in perfectly well. Now they say these things can be used for anything. And it's true - it really can, maybe they should use this as an example on their website: http://www.buffwear.com/

Used that to tie the cable tight to the bike, could even adjust it as I went! Decided just to cycle straight back just in case it gave up the ghost once and for all.....did that, but just couldn't resist stopping off at a YMCA once I was on the road back. Bought two ice cold Cokes, the best Coke I've ever tasted, lay on the beach til an hour before sunset. Took a little while to dawn on me, but think I was the only one on that beach:

Probably found my own little paradise that day

Watched the sun set over the mountains as I cycled back, wearing nothing but shorts and flip flops. Cooling breeze making me, I think, the cyclist having the world's best cycle ride, right at that moment.

Had a spectacular final sunset when I neared the hostel, deep orangy glow over the ocean, looking back at where I'd been - right to the tip of that land mass right there: